Few places evoke the feeling of “la dolce vita” more than Positano, Italy. The tiny town is tucked along the Amalfi Coast in the south west of Italy. Pastel colored buildings cling to the cliffside and the smell of fresh seafood and lemon wafts through the air.
Positano is a dream destination, and one that you’ve probably seen all over Instagram (it’s so photogenic!) but it’s not that easy to plan a trip to Positano. It’s a bit out of the way with no major airports close by, and getting around can be a challenge. I’ve been lucky enough to visit Positano twice and I know the area well.
I’ve written ultimate Positano travel guide to help you plan a dream vacation to Positano! This Positano travel guide breaks down the top restaurants in Positano, what to do in the Amalfi Coast and the best hotels in Positano.
When to travel to Positano
Positano has a mild Mediterranean climate, so it sees hot summers and relatively mellow winters. There is no real bad time to visit Positano, but it is a seasonal town, meaning stuff shuts down off season. May to early October is the high season with June, July and August being the busiest (and most expensive) months.
With destinations like Positano that get super busy and pricy in the high season, I like to travel in the shoulder season, right before the most popular months. On my most recent trip to Positano I traveled in May.
Getting to Positano
Actually getting to Positano can be a bit of a challenge. Unlike most of the popular cities in Italy, there’s no direct airport in Positano. The closest large airport is in Naples, an hour and 15 minute car ride away. Once you land in Naples you have a few options for continuing on to Positano- train, ferry, bus or car.
Train- There is no train that goes directly to Positano. From Naples you can catch the Circumvesuvia train to Sorrento, and continue on from there via a ferry or the SITA bus. A word of warning- this train is known to be pretty sketchy and filled with pickpockets. I’ve spoken with some serious travelers who said they felt uneasy during the ride. I would avoid it unless you have no other option, and if you do ride stay vigilant.
Bus- The SITA bus is a very cheap option to reach Positano. It departs from Sorrento and takes 45 minutes to get to Positano, all for 2 euros.
Ferry- Based on when you land, you can catch a ferry from Naples or Sorrento.
Car- Rent your own car or hire a car transfer from the airport to drop you off in Naples. I hired Naples Airport Transfers for 90 euros each way. This is definitely the most expensive option, but if you’re sharing the cost with people it could equal out. I knew that after a long flight I just wanted to get to my destination without thinking, and this was the best option.
Getting around once you’re in Positano
Positano is a very walkable town. Most of the hotels and restaurants are a short distance from each other and it’s easy to explore on feet. But if you’ve done any research on Positano you know that it’s built into a hill, and that means lots of steps! It’s a bit of a workout getting around, but with all the delicious pasta and gelato you’ll be eating that’s not a bad thing.
I was very back and forth on whether or not to rent a car during my time in Positano. There are more articles advising against it than for it, saying the roads are narrow and winding, it’s expensive, use the local public transportation, etc. While this all is true, I’m here to say rent a car in Positano!
There are a few caveats, however. The Amalfi Coast Highway is definitely as nerve-racking as people say. The narrow road zigs and zags along the mountainside, with a steep drop off into the ocean below. Huge tourist buses and trucks drive the road, and it can be scary to navigate the tight turns. Check out the Southern Italy highlight on my Instagram to see videos of the drive! I also agree that there is a lot to see in Positano itself, and if you’re only there for a couple days it’s best to stay local. However, if you have some extra time and are a confident driver, you’ll love the freedom of having your own wheels.
I rented a car for two days/one night during my five night stay. I did the rental right from my hotel for about 80 euro. With the car I was able to explore the nearby towns of Sorrento, Praiano and Ravello. This is possible by bus, but as I said above, I like the freedom of having my own vehicle.
Positano was still my favorite area hands down, but I enjoyed getting a taste of the other Amalfi Coast towns. I wouldn’t have been able to easily experience a lot of locations outside of Positano center (like the Fiordo de Furore, a nearby fjord) without renting a car.
If you want to explore outside of Positano but aren’t up for driving you could take the public bus or ferries.
Where to stay in Positano
Positano is built into a hillside and there is a lot of walking up and down hills and stairs. Keep this in mind if you or someone in your party has mobility issues. There are taxis but they’re very overpriced. It’s best to choose a hotel that’s easily accessible to the beach and the Positano town center, which is filled with shops and restaurants.
Another thing to keep in mind is the price of accommodations in Positano. It can get expensive! During high season the top rated hotels are very pricy and they fill up quickly, so it’s important to plan ahead. Below are the best hotels in Positano, for all different budgets.
Le Sirenuse– The top luxury hotel in Positano. This hotel is absolutely stunning and has beautiful views of the sunset. It gets extremely pricy during high season. Le Sirenuse is in a prime spot in the middle of all the action. If you aren’t staying here I still recommend stopping by for a drink at one of their bars to enjoy the scenery.
Hotel Marincanto– This is a beautiful hotel that has direct beach access via a staircase. Every guest room has a balcony with ocean views! It’s in a great area and near restaurants and shops. This is a moderately priced hotel option in a great location.
Il San Pietro di Positano– This hotel has a private beach area, a waterfront restaurant and a free shuttle into Positano town center.
Hotel Poseidon– This is a moderately priced hotel with beautiful views overlooking Positano and the ocean. It’s set a bit high on the hill, but is an easy walk down to the restaurants in town and beach.
Best Restaurants and Bars in Positano
I dream about some of the meals I had in Positano. Truly! The food is incredible. Fresh seafood, decadent pastas and sweet limoncello can be found all over town. But, some restaurants are better than others. Here are the top restaurants in Positano.
Da Vincenzo– Hands down my favorite restaurant in Positano. It gets busy, so make a reservation or be prepared to wait (they give you Prosecco while you wait!) You can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, just be sure to finish your meal with their tiramisu and limoncello. Thank me later.
Il Tridente– This restaurant is a few doors down from Da Vincenzo, located in the Hotel Poseidon (a decent moderately priced hotel option). The food and service is wonderful! The go-to dish here is the lemon pasta with shrimp.
Casa e Bottega– This is a beautifully designed restaurant and cafe. It’s a bit more modern and “American” than other places in Positano with a health food focused menu (zoodles, açaí bowls, omelettes, almond milk lattes). Perfect for brunch!
Bruno– Beautiful views and traditional dishes can be found at Bruno. I had a delicious spaghetti alle vongole here!
Franco’s Bar and Champagne & Oyster Bar– Both of these bars are located at Le Sirenuse hotel. Franco’s Bar is more informal and outdoors, and the Champagne & Oyster Bar is a bit fancier. Stop by for a (expensive) cocktail and enjoy the ambiance but do not order food! We had a meal at the Champagne & Oyster Bar that was awful and extremely overpriced.
Chez Black– This is a great spot to grab a drink down by the beach.
Spiaggia Bar Ristorante La Marinella– This is an adorable little spot for drinks and light bites by the Fornillo beach.
What to do in Positano
There is so much to do and see in Positano! While it isn’t like Rome or Venice where there are many museums and historical sights, there’s plenty to keep you busy.
Beaches- Positano is all about la dolce vita- eating, drinking, enjoying the coastal views and relaxing. One of the main draws in this area are the beaches.
The main beach in Positano is called Spiaggia Grande. Here you can rent lounge chairs and umbrellas and enjoy a swim or rest in the sun. Just keep in mind that the beach is a little rocky. Spiaggia Grande can get crowded during popular times, so you may want to take a short walk to a smaller beach such as Fornillo. To get to Fornillo Beach you will go up a staircase and follow a path thats to your right (if you’re looking at the ocean). You can rent lounge chairs and umbrellas here too, it’s just a bit quieter. Both beaches have restaurants and bars to get a bite.
Boating- In the Positano marina you’ll find a lot of boat tour companies offering a variety of trips. Some of the popular trips are group tours to Capri, private sunset sails and tours of the Positano coast. There’s a lot to choose from. I had a private tour planned to explore the Positano coast, but unfortunately due to bad weather it got cancelled. If you want to do a boat tour I recommend calling a few different companies to get the best price. I met a couple at dinner one night who were paying significantly less than I was supposed to be paying for my trip that got cancelled.
Shopping- There’s great shopping in the Positano town center. Here you’ll find everything from touristy souvenir shops to handmade ceramic stores to clothing boutiques.
Positano is known for its beautiful handmade and hand painted ceramics. I wanted to redo my entire kitchen with plates, mugs and and bowls bought from Positano! Many of the shops do ship items back to the states, but it can get expensive.
Shopping in Positano in general can get pricy, so I recommend spending your first few days exploring the shops around town and save buying until you really know what you want. Every store I went into accepted cash as well as credit, but I recommend always having a few euros on hand for small purchases. My favorite store was Casa e Bottega, same as the brunch restaurant I listed above. They have a lovely retail section.
What to pack for a trip to Positano
Positano has a mild Mediterranean climate. Since it’s on the water, it can get cool and breezy at night.
If you’re going in the spring or fall definitely pack a pair of pants and a jacket. In May we had a couple days where it was chilly in the shade and I was so happy to have a light coat with me! People tend to dress up for meals in Positano, so dresses and skirts are great for dinner.
The most important thing to keep in mind for packing is shoes. Since the area is so hilly you’ll want to leave the sky high heels at home. Opt for wedges or chunky heeled shoes that are easier to walk in. You’ll be thankful that your feet aren’t killing you when you’re strolling around town.
I hope you enjoyed this Positano travel guide! It’s such a beautiful town with surreal views that’s filled with amazing food and people. There’s nothing better than sipping an Aperol Spritz and watching the sun dip behind the coast. Bookmark this guide to help you plan the ultimate trip to this beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast!
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