Whenever someone asks what destination surprised me the most, my answer is always Scotland. It was never a location high up on my list. In 2018 I was presented with the opportunity to visit and I accepted. I’m so glad I did because I loved it! In fact, I loved Scotland so much I went back the following year!
Scotland is a magical place. The landscape is vast and seems otherworldly… from the historic winding cobblestone roads of Edinburgh to the rugged vistas of Isle of Skye, this country offers something for everyone. It’s also a great destination for a Scotland road trip.
While Scotland’s landscape is so diverse it’s also a relatively small and sparsely populated country. Getting around and seeing a lot of sights is doable, especially if you rent a car. This post covers a Scotland road trip itinerary that brings you from Edinburgh to Isle of Skye, up around the east side of the country to Skye.
I’ve been to Scotland twice and on each trip I like to combine city and countryside. If you’re pressed for time but want to experience two very different sides of Scotland, an Edinburgh to Isle of Skye road trip is a great choice. Read on for your Scotland road trip itinerary, and check out this post that covers how to have a successful road trip in Scotland.
Scottish Heather
Horses in the Scottish Highlands
Mealt Waterfall / Kilt Rock
About Scotland
Scotland is the U.K.’s northern most country. It shares a border with England and it’s home to around 800 small islands. While Scotland isn’t that large, it’s just over 30,000 square miles, it packs a punch – a combination which is perfect for a short but sweet Edinburgh to Skye road trip.
The geography of the country is very unique and a major part of its appeal. In fact, Scotland was once voted the world’s most beautiful country. You can find rugged coastlines, mountainous terrain, stunning beaches and world class cities all in one country.
Scotland’s weather
The weather in Scotland is something that a lot of people ask about. My first visit to Scotland was at the end of February, and my second visit was in mid September. I’ll admit, I was quite nervous leading up to my February trip. I was told that it would be wet and cold with constant rain. I’m happy to say that wasn’t the case. We had good weather, it barely rained and we saw the sun each day, with temperatures in the mid-40s. We even felt hot sometimes while walking in the bright sun!
It’s important to remember that even at the best time of year, the weather in Scotland is unpredictable. It’s best to wear layers (regardless of the month you visit) and always have a jacket and umbrella nearby. It also gets very windy near the coast. I highly recommend a lightweight water repellent jacket, like this one or this one that are classics and will last forever. You’ll also look chic and really fit in!
Getting to Scotland and getting around Scotland
Scotland is an easy destination to travel to. Direct flights are offered from over 32 countries, and it’s a 75 minute flight from London and 110 minutes from Paris. I flew direct from Stewart International Airport, which is located outside of New York City, to Edinburgh on Norwegian. Unfortunately as of April 2021 this route is no longer running, but flights are easy to find from most large airports.
Once in Scotland I highly recommend renting a car to drive from Edinburgh to Isle of Skye. You are doing a road trip after all!
Even if you don’t plan to do a long road trip, I still suggest renting a car for even one day to easily explore the area surrounding Edinburgh. Sure you can take the trains (and I’ve heard the country has a great train system) but I prefer to have my own car to make detours as I wish and stay on my own schedule.
Scotland is full of historic castles, dramatic ruins, beautiful scenery and epic hikes, you definitely don’t want to miss out on something nearby just because you didn’t have a way to get there.
My favorite rental car company to rent from has always been Hertz, and I was so excited to try a rental with Hertz Europe in Scotland. The experience was amazing! The car we got was perfect (the European version of a Nissan Rogue) and felt very safe. It had cameras on all sides to help with parking and if we went over a traffic line on the winding country roads, or got too close to something, an alert would go off. This was especially helpful in Scotland, a country where they drive on the opposite side.
Cheval Old Town Chambers
Dean Village
Circus Lane
Edinburgh to Isle of Skye road trip itinerary
How to spend 3 days in Edinburgh
Most flights land at Edinburgh Airport, and this beautiful city is the first stop on the Scotland road trip itinerary.
Edinburgh truly blew me away, I absolutely LOVED it! It’s such a walkable city center filled to the brim with charm and new places to discover around each corner. The architecture in Edinburgh is beautiful and the city’s medieval past seems very much alive in its buildings. Crooked cobblestone streets and Georgian architecture intertwine perfectly with modern construction and make it an awesome place to explore. In fact, Old Town Edinburgh is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
For first time visitors to Edinburgh, I recommend really immersing yourself in the city and staying in the Old Town. I’ve stayed in both Cheval Old Town Chambers which is in the heart of Old Town, and Kimpton Charlotte Square in New Town. Both were great.
Edinburgh is a perfect city to explore on foot because nooks, small alleyways and steep cobblestone staircases lie around every corner. I love waking up early, grabbing coffee and setting off to explore.
Edinburgh is such a walkable city, and you should spend time exploring its charming neighborhoods. My two favorite places to wander are Dean Village and Circus Lane in the Stockbridge area. Dean Village is picturesque residential village with a river winding through its streets. Circus Lane is a mews lane that was built in the 1700’s when Edinburgh’s New Town was developed. It is a quiet residential street that oozes charm and is full of beautiful homes and even more beautiful gardens.
While one of my favorite things to do in Edinburgh is just wander around and explore, some of the must-see activities in Edinburgh include visiting the Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile, and climbing to the top of Arthur’s Seat. And if you’re a Harry Potter fan there is a whole list of additional must-dos!
Edinburgh served as the inspiration for Harry Potter and it’s easy to see the parallels. The hauntingly beautiful Edinburgh Castle is perched on a hill overlooking the city and resembles Hogwarts. The colorful and commercial Victoria Street which is lined with shops gives nod to Diagon Alley. Another fun edition to a Potterhead’s Edinburgh itinerary is to swing by The Elephant House, a cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote some of Harry Potter.
After you’re done exploring it’s time to eat authentic Scottish cuisine. I found the food in Edinburgh to be delicious and very fresh. Some of my favorite Edinburgh restaurants are The Doric for traditional Scottish bites, The Milkman for coffee, The Bon Vivant for small shareable plates and Bramble for craft cocktails in a “speakeasy” bar.
Where to stay in Edinburgh: Cheval Old Town Chambers in Old Town or Kimpton Charlotte Square in New Town
Best things to do in Edinburgh: Explore the residential areas of Circus Lane and Dean Village, visit Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, climb Arthur’s Seat and Calton Hill, check out the “real life” Diagon Alley, Victoria Street
Best restaurants in Edinburgh: The Doric (traditional Scottish bites), The Milkman ( tea and coffee), The Bon Vivant (small shareable plates) and Bramble (craft cocktails)
Recommended length of stay in Edinburgh: 2-4 nights
Dunnottar Castle
Craigievar Castle
Dunnottar Castle
Driving from Edinburgh to Isle of Skye
After your time in Edinburgh, it’s time to start the Scotland road trip from Edinburgh to the Isle of Skye.
On my two visits to Scotland, for the route from Edinburgh to Skye, I drove from Edinburgh up and east, towards Aberdeen. I love this scenic route because you hit iconic Scotland highlights along the way, including castles, bucolic towns and Inverness. Your final destination is Isle of Skye, and while you can can choose to go the more direct route heading west from Edinburgh, I do recommended seeing the beauty of Northeast Scotland. I have done this trip straight through without spending the night and I have also spent the night.
Highlights on this Edinburgh to Skye drive:
Dunnottar Castle is a ruined medieval castle perched on sheer cliffs along the ocean. It’s an incredibly dramatic sight and what I imagine when I think of “Scottish Castle.” We toured the grounds and had a great time walking within the castle ruins, it was very evocative.
Craigievar Castle is pink perfection come to life. Craigievar was said to be the inspiration for Cinderella’s Castle and it’s truly fit for a princess. It’s a pink castle located on a hill in the middle of the woods. Well worth a quick stop!
If you opt to spend the night on your Edinburgh to Isle of Skye road trip I highly recommend The Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar. It’s a five star boutique hotel that focuses on mixing modern art with traditional Scottish touches. It’s an absolutely stunning property that is one of my favorite hotels in the world. It’s also situated in an A+ location… right up the main road from Balmoral Castle, the Scottish holiday home of the Royal Family!
Inverness is next up on the drive after Aberdeenshire. Here you can explore the luxurious Culloden House which is over 200 years old and was built when Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, attracted wealthy families from all over. The original house on the property was a 16th century Jacobean castle that was home to a range of Scottish royal and noble families over the years. The rich history of Culloden is so interesting and it’s a great place to spend a night in the Highlands to really steep yourself in the area’s rich past.
Where to stay on the Edinburgh to Skye route: The Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar
What to do: Visit Dunnottar Castle, stop at the pink Craigiervar Castle and explore the small town of Braemar
Where to eat: The Bay Fish and Chips in Stonehaven, The Flying Stag in Braemar
Recommended length of stay: 1 night
Highland Cow
Fairy Glen
Isle of Skye
How to spend 3 days in the Isle of Skye
The last stop on the itinerary, and a must on any Scotland road trip, is Isle of Skye. When you reach Skye prepare to be blown away by the otherworldly landscape!
Isle of Skye is in the Scottish Highlands and situated off the west coast of the country. It’s known for dramatic. views, rugged landscape, charming fishing villages and beautiful medieval castles. It truly lived up to my expectations.
I recommend making your home base in Portree, the main town on the island. It’s a colorful and lively port filled with cute shops and delicious seafood restaurants. Portree was a great base for exploring all that Skye has to offer, but have a car comes in very handy to reach all the points of interest and hikes on the island.
A major highlight of my time in Skye was the hotel I stayed at, The Bosville. This charming boutique hotel is located in the center of Portree. It’s a cozy and charming hotel with delicious restaurants and a perfectly Scottish pub. The hotel’s restaurant, Dulse & Brose, is amazing and most reservations come with a complementary breakfast. I had almost every meal in the hotel, that’s how good the food is! The Bosville also has a cozy pub with fireplaces- the perfect place to relax after a day of Highlands hiking.
Isle of Skye is a great destination for outdoors adventure lovers. The main activities take place out on the island’s rugged terrain. Hiking on the Isle of Skye is very popular and there are trails for all levels of comfort.
My favorite area to explore and hike on Isle of Skye is Fairy Glen. This is a hilly area with a glen and it looks like something out of a fairytale (hence the name). Here you’ll find easy hikes and magnificent landscape views.
Brother’s Point is another great hike. This stop is not as popular as Fairy Glen, but is well worth it. This is a steep headland, with jagged cliffs leading down the the ocean. The water views are spectacular.
The Old Man of Storr is the most recognizable landmark in Skye. I just drove around it and admired the unique rock formations, but there are hiking trails. The trails here are very busy and it’s a medium difficulty hike.
Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls is another great spot to visit on Skye. This is more of a viewpoint, but you can do a short walk around the area. Mealt Falls is a beautiful, long waterfall that goes into the ocean. It’s very dramatic!
One of the most dramatic castle I saw in Scotland is located right outside of Skye just before the Skye Bridge, Eilean Donan Castle. This 13th century castle is a very popular symbol of Scotland. It’s located on its own little island and has a beautiful long, curved bridge leading up to the entrance.
Of course whisky distilleries are a must in Scotland. Many visitors to Skye check out Talisker Distillery, the oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye. Guided tours are offered of the warehouse.
Simply just driving around Isle of Skye is an experience. The lane roads are narrow, hilly and winding, but the views are incredible. I loved just driving around and stumbling upon small fishing villages and ocean viewpoints. I also had fun trying to spot the Highland Cows the area is famous for!
Some important things to note about Isle of Skye are the weather and the road conditions. Local drivers and huge tour buses will speed past you without slowing down on the tight, winding roads. Stay alert and drive with caution. Like the rest of Scotland, the weather in Skye is unpredictable. Something that really struck me was the wind, especially on the steep hikes near the ocean. Hike with care and pack a good windbreaker and you will be fine.
Isle of Skye is an incredible destination and a very unique road trip. No trip to Scotland, especially a Scottish road trip vacation, is complete without visiting this island!
Where to stay on the Isle of Skye: The Bosville in Portree
Best Things to do on the Isle of Skye: Hike Fairy Glen, Brother’s Point and Old Man of Storr. Visit Mealt Falls, Talisker Distillery and Eilean Donan, Dunvegan Castle
Where to eat on the Isle of Skye: Dulse & Brose and The Old School in Portree. The Three Chimneys for a luxury, Michelin Star dining experience in Colbost
Recommended length of stay in Skye: 2-3 nights
A Scotland road trip is without a doubt one of the best road trips in the world and whether you’re planning a short 5 day Scotland road trip itinerary or a longer vacation that takes you off the beaten track in the Scottish Highlands, I can guarantee you’ll be met with amazing nature, beautiful views and charming historic towns along the way on your Edinburgh to Isle of Skye road trip.
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